Saturday, 15 March 2014

All about zippers: Balenciaga F14

Third runaway for Balenciaga since Alexander Wang is in its front rows, and what do we see? He is becoming more confident - that's for sure. Moreover - his collection becomes a reflection of his early career. Wang began his own business with a line of knits while he was a student, and now, voila!, we are back there.

This collection mostly could be put under some keywords - all-American sportswear, knits, and zippers. And yes - volume. This season A. Wang gives us new definition of old, familiar pieces. For instance, wrap dress, knitted from thin strips of Japanese polyester jersey, jumpers featuring polyester with fur ribs. Also, new idea of sweater, giving it a new dense neckline. Some long dresses we have already seen in last years - they remind rough fishing nets with horizontal stripes.

Talking about main elements in collection - zippers it is. Zippers for coats, jumpers, trousers. Zippers for everything. If it is not knitted, it is zipped. Zippers was spomething incredibly fashionalbe in 90's and now they are coming back. Last seasons leather jacket was considered to be stylish if it featured any zippers, and it seems that Alexander Wang is taking zipper on a new level.

Talking about history of zippers - they are popular only thanks to high-fashion. First one, who made something similar to modern zipper, was Elias Howe (we do remember him as the sewing machine pioneer) in 1852, however, he didn't introduce his invention in markets. After 40 years in the USA long boots become popular, and you can imagine - you are running late, but you need to close 20 buttons. So there zippers showed up. However, it took First World War so designers would introduce zippers to their collections. And so zippers conquered the world. 

But back to modern days and Balenciaga. Main colors in this show were plum, gray, blue and black. For some brighter splash Wang used yellow, to make our autumn at least a bit colorful. But this collection is not to be considered as playful - cutting and outline makes you wander about dark afternoons, rain clouds and autumn winds. Asymmetric forms and androgen lines state that it is time to wear uniform again. Question- who is the enemy - stays opened. Compared to other designers, Wang does not use fashion week to attack someone. he is not against modern lifestyle, his collection is our modern lifestyle.

Talking about trends in models - I have a feeling that this autumn will be the "nervous, tired women" autumn, at least some designers give us models with tired look, lack of make up and extremely easily made hairstyle.

About the accessories - Wang is up for three things. First, women are to continue shopping or at least act, that every day is spent in magazine, so he has introduced bags which, despite of the fact, that they are made from leather,  remind of shopping bags. Second - huge leather gloves will be must-have. Blue and black, half-arm long with snake pattern. Third - fur is not only for your coat, your bag must be made from it. You are free to choose - use only one, two or all three of these trends - Wang gives you different patterns.

And finally: here comes my top 4 Balenciaga looks: